Smoke and Mirrors:
Genz’s Aesthetic Obsession




In an era where our every move is catalogued and broadcast to the world via social media, the pursuit of identity and individuality has taken on a whole new level of complexity for GenZ. In the ever-evolving world of trends, we've witnessed the comeback of a cultural icon that, for a while, seemed destined for the history books: smoking. Once considered a fading relic of the past, cigarettes have made their way back into young people's hands this time with a chic new look. According to the Action on Smoking and Health Association, the percentage of adults (16 years and older) smoking in the UK steadily decreased with the percentage of adult smokers in the UK going from 45% in 1974 to 20% in 2010. (ASH, Smoking Statistics 2021). In the 2000s, we were showered with anti-smoking campaigns and far-reaching school education about the dangers of smoking, which differed significantly from what our parents had.



You might be asking, "Didn't vaping take over in the 2010s?" Well, yes, it did. Vaping, with its enticing flavours and the perception of being less harmful than traditional cigarettes, captivated the younger crowd. A new era emerged, where elf bars and Lost Marys were treated like candy, in 2021 the proportion of people vaping over smoking was at an all-time high. Many vape users have been non-smokers previously 11.5% (ASH, 2023). Even much-loved fashion influencer Emma Chamberlain recently discussed her struggle with nicotine addiction in a recent episode of her podcast. So why has smoking cigarettes made a comeback?



Recent years saw the dominance of the 'clean girl' trend on our social media feeds. It showcased images of slender, flawless girls sipping green juices and practising yoga, promoting an ideal of perfect health, physical appearance, and mental well-being. This trend left minimal space for imperfections and diversity, setting a standard that felt unattainable for many. This relentless pursuit of perfection has triggered a rebel counterculture, and as trends usually function the new trend is a revolt against the previous. Causing the super perfect health trend to inevitably give birth to its conflicting unhealthy trend.



In a time where young people are constantly searching for identity and authenticity, smoking has become a symbol of counterculture. Popular celebrities like Dua Lipa, Lilly Rose Deep and Lana Del Rey, have been posing and posting photos of them smoking. Yet previously in recent decades, stars asked photographers to delete these photos, but now, it seems like there is a rebellious aesthetic charm to smoking. From iconic stars like Audrey Hepburn to the unforgettable Marilyn Monroe, smoking has long been associated with sophistication and allure. The slender cigarette between dainty fingers exudes glamour. This combined with the resurgence of the dangerous '90s fashion’, and ‘heroin chic’ coming back into fashion recently which promotes a dangerously slender aesthetic, smoking has made a resounding return as a must-have accessory for those seeking to ‘break the mould.’



In a digital universe saturated with messages like "wear this!" and "buy this!", it's no wonder that young people are eager to break free from the constraints of conformity. The omnipresent commercialization of self-identity leaves them searching for a way to stand out, to feel different, and, yes, to feel cool. Enter smoking, a habit that promises rebellion and a dash of nostalgia for a time they weren't even alive to witness. It's no surprise that young people are seeking to break free from conformity and yearning for nostalgia, even for a time they've never known. The resurgence of smoking serves as a testament to the complex challenges Generation Z faces in an era dominated by digital validation. For a generation that is obsessed with self-perception, identity, and an ever-growing need to stand out in the fear of being labelled basic where everything we do can be viewed, commented on, and compared, the yearning for individuality has never been more profound. Glamourizing the past with retro vintage vibes, smoking has now made its way into our aesthetics being used in the same vein as accessories and even as a fashion statement.



However, it's crucial to confront the harsh reality: nicotine ranks among the most addictive substances globally. What may begin as a quest for a new unique aesthetic, ‘smoking for the aesthetic’ can rapidly spiral into a treacherous journey. Once smoking becomes deeply woven into one's identity, breaking free from its grip becomes a challenging task.



Moreover, it's essential to acknowledge that this emerging counterculture, often termed 'rock star girlfriend core,' tends to gloss over the genuine consequences of smoking and the actual appearance of long-term smokers. When scrolling through Pinterest boards, we seldom encounter gruesome images of individuals suffering from severe dental issues and the adverse effects of smoking. Instead, we are presented with photos of beautiful, slender femme fatales—a far cry from the reality of long-term smoking's impact. Smoking not only poses serious risks to one's internal health but also takes a toll on one's physical appearance. 'Smoking for the aesthetic' is undeniably one of the most perilous trends we've witnessed in recent times, and it's paramount that we remain vigilant about the hazards associated with smoking.







ASH (2021) Smoking statistics, ASH. Available at: https://ash.org.uk/resources/view/smoking-statistics (Accessed: 20 September 2023).

ASH (2023) Use of e-cigarettes among young people in Great Britain, ASH. Available at: https://ash.org.uk/resources/view/use-of-e-cigarettes-among-young-people-in-great-britain (Accessed: 20 September 2023).

‘Anything goes with Emma Chamberlain’ (2023) Anything goes with Emma Chamberlain . Available at: https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/quitting-nicotine/id1458568923?i=1000626584918 (Accessed: 20 September 2023).

Elliott, T. (2022) From the ashes: Smoking’s curious comeback on the silver screen, The Sydney Morning Herald. Available at: https://www.smh.com.au/culture/tv-and-radio/from-the-ashes-smoking-s-curious-comeback-on-the-silver-screen-20220120-p59py5.html (Accessed: 20 September 2023).